9) Remove ejector trip rods The ejector trip rods don't actually need to be removed but I recommend it highly. Just push them backwards toward the rear of the receiver with a punch from the front until you can pull them out with your fingers or pull them out with a punch in the slot. The trip rod channels get filthy and need to be cleaned out and the rods themselves should be cleaned and re-lubed. The trip rods may also need to be polished and/or re-bent. Neither of my trip rods was bent quite right from the factory and they were binding in their channels excessively. The trip rods should be snug in their channels but still fairly easy to push back and forth with your finger or a punch. The trip rods are pushed forward by the hammer upon firing and backwards by the forearm when you open the gun after firing. Excessive binding of the trip rods can contribute to misfires by retarding hammer speed and also make the gun harder to open. I re-bent my trip rods (made them a little straighter) and sanded them smoother until they moved back and forth in their channels much easier. This may be one reason why I never get misfires. Don't go nuts bending the trip rods, small changes make a big difference so make a little bend, re-install in the gun and test for smoothness. 10) Clean parts to be reused Thoroughly clean and, if necessary, polish/smooth any parts to be reused (probably just the hammers, hammer spring guides and trip rods) This shows the old and new parts for comparison: 11) Clean receiver I clean my receiver by squirting it with a lot of drugstore alcohol, cleaning out all holes with alcohol soaked Q-Tips or a little electric razor cleaning brush, scrubbing everything with a toothbrush and then blowing all the remaining gunk out with a blower attachment on an air compressor. 12) Reassemble in reverse order using new parts and lube as appropriate The only tricky parts are installing the hammer pins and hammer springs. Hammer pins: Test install both hammer pins, on the right and left sides, to make sure they thread smoothly and go all the way in. My right side pin hole must have had a defect in the threads because it was extremely difficult to screw the new pin all the way in. The old pin was also hard to screw out or in. I cleaned the threads up and new pins now go in smoothly. Note: if your pins do not screw all the way in smoothly be careful not to ding up the screwdriver slot in the pin since it might bind in the slot in the trip rod. It is a good idea to buy 4 pins in case you have a problem and need a spare. Once your hammer pins screw in properly, install the ejector trip rods and hammers. Then push the trip rods in/out until the round section of the slot lines up perfectly with the hammer pin hole. Then visually line up the hole in the hammer with the hammer pin hole. Then push the hammer pin into the receiver hole until it stops at the inside threaded portion of the hammer pin hole. Usually the hammer must be pushed/wiggled as you insert the hammer pin until the pin goes all the way through the hammer itself. The sears tend to get in the way and need to be pushed with a finger. Once the pin is pushed through the hammer hole you can then screw it all the way into the threads until it bottoms. Then back the hammer pin out about a half turn until the flat sides of the top of the pin line up with the slot in the trip rod. Then you can push the trip rod forward. The pin is now loose in the threads but cannot turn because the trip rod slot holds the pin in alignment. When you are installing the hammer and hammer pins, lube the hole in the hammer and the shaft of the hammer pin with a film of grease. Hammer springs: This is the hardest part but easy once you get used to it. The problem is that the hammer springs must be compressed so you can push the tip of the spring guide rod into the recess in the hammer. First put the hammers in their fired position. Then insert just the guide rod into the hole at the rear of the receiver and insert the tip of the guide rod into the hammer recess. This is super easy and shows you how the guide rod fits. Now simply repeat this operation with the hammer spring installed on the guide rod. This will take most people a few tries because compressing the spring is a little difficult and everything tends to slip. Some folks use needle-nose pliers to grip the tip of the guide rod and push it into the recess on the hammer but I like to use an old screwdriver with U-shaped slot filed in it. The only other point I should mention is that when installing the firing pin retainer pins, note that the firing pins have cutouts that must oriented properly so the retainer pins will go in their holes. And obviously don't forget the spring that goes on the lower firing pin. Push the retainer pins in as far as they will go by hand then tap them in flush with the receiver surface using a small punch and hammer. Top pin goes in from the left side and bottom pin goes in from the right side. Once the receiver is back together I lightly oil the moving parts, heavy oil on the main parts and light oil on the trigger parts. I also put a little grease on the hammer/sear contact surfaces. Oil/grease brands are pretty much a matter of personal preference. Any decent gun oil/grease will work fine. Wipe off any excess oil/grease with a Q-Tip, put the stock/recoil pad back on and you are done. Good shooting!